The 2005 Shar Kangsum Expedition was a four‑member project aimed at making the first official ascents of previously unclimbed 6000‑metre peaks in a remote region of West‑Central Tibet, while also collecting atmospheric data for the HIMAP research programme.
The journey from Kathmandu to Tibet took six days, involving difficult roads, multiple checkpoints, and a dramatic incident in Saga where a sudden nighttime flood washed through their campsite, nearly sweeping away tents and equipment. Despite this setback, the team established Base Camp at ~5050 m, then Advanced Base Camp at ~5600 m and a high Camp One at ~5800 m. Progress in the mountains was hampered for over two weeks by persistent storms, hail, low cloud, and highly unstable snow.
During clearer weather windows, the team achieved first ascents of three peaks: Jemakari Thobo (6603m) via its southeast ridge (graded PD+), Tsachenbori (6210m) via the southwest ridge (F+), and Sum Kangri (6390m) via the west ridge (PD–). All were previously unclimbed and unnamed. Their attempt on the highest mountain, Shar Kangsum (≈6822 m), was abandoned near 6000m after three large avalanches swept their intended line of ascent. Additional reconnaissance documented several other unclimbed 6000m peaks and potential future routes.
