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´¡²ú²õ³Ù°ù²¹³¦³Ù:ÌýAccurate modelling of coastal wave transformation is essential for the safe and efficient design of coastal and offshore infrastructure, yet remains challenging due to the complex processes governing shallow-water wave dynamics. This seminar presents a numerical investigation of unidirectional irregular wave propagation over planar bathymetry, with particular emphasis on the influence of bed slope on nearshore surface elevations and kinematics.

An extensive dataset is generated using the non-hydrostatic wave model SWASH, comprising more than two million waves simulated across a broad range of offshore wave conditions and bed slopes. The results demonstrate that bed slope exerts a fundamental control on wave shoaling, breaking, and nonlinear energy transfers. Through spectral and statistical analyses of surface elevations and wave-induced velocities, the evolution of wave statistics, energy distribution, and wave shape throughout the nearshore zone is systematically quantified.

Steeper slopes are found to produce larger wave and crest heights, together with enhanced near-surface velocities, whereas milder slopes promote stronger nonlinear evolution, broader spectra, and greater redistribution of energy across frequency bands. These processes lead to distinct spectral transformations and systematic differences in wave asymmetry and higher-order statistics. Collectively, these findings provide a unified physical framework for understanding slope-dependent coastal wave transformation and form the basis for new parameterisations to predict coastal wave evolution in engineering design.

You can join the seminar live on Thursday, 2 July 2026, 12.00 at the following link:

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